JUST enough butter and egg to make them a bit more tender than would

be, say, the Pain au Levain (page 91) if you shaped it into rolls instead of a

loaf. Try serving them with just a pat of unsalted butter and some coarse salt.

80 grams ripe Mother Starter, chilled or at room temperature (page 87)

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

1 cup plus 10 tablespoons (225 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

1. Bread Starter 1¼ cups warm milk (about 95°F) (not nonfat) 4 cups (560 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 2 tablespoons (24 g) sugar 4 tablespoons (56 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 tablespoon (18 g) kosher salt 1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature To make the bread starter, tear the ripe Mother Starter into five pieces and place all of them in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the water and mix on low speed until the mixture looks like a liquid slurry (about 2 minutes). Add the bread flour and mix on low speed until the flour is incorporated into the liquid. Switch to the dough hook and knead on medium speed for 2 minutes. The dough will be stretchy and smooth. Transfer the bread starter to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Allow the dough to rise in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size (6 to 8 hours). Do not proceed until the bread starter has doubled fully. Once the bread starter has doubled in size, use it to make the bread dough. Place the bread starter in the bowl of your stand mixer, add the warm milk, and mix with the paddle attachment on low speed to soften the bread starter (about 1 minute). Add the bread flour and sugar and switch to the dough hook. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead for about 2 minutes, until the dough is once again stretchy and smooth. Add the butter, salt, and eggs, raise the mixer speed to medium, and knead for 3 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 2 days. After 2 days, the dough has a tendency to become too active and will easily overproof after being shaped. On baking day, preheat your oven to 350°F. Line a small, rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into fifteen pieces of equal size and follow the instructions on page 32 for shaping small, round rolls. Place the rounds less than 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet, in rows. Cover the baking sheet with oiled plastic wrap and allow to rise in a warm, draft-free location until nearly doubled in size (about 1½ hours). With a sharp knife or lame, slash each roll with an X on the top, each line of the X at a 45-degree angle to the bread (see page 34). Place the rolls in the center of the preheated oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the rolls are lightly golden brown and register 185°F on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from the oven and serve warm. M

MAKES 2 SMALL ROUND LOAVES

LEVAIN Dinner Rolls (page 97), this boule bread is great for

sandwiches or just for tearing into soon after it comes out of the oven.

80 grams ripe Mother Starter, chilled or at room temperature (page 87)

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

1 cup plus 10 tablespoons (225 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

1. Bread Starter 1¼ cups warm milk (about 95°F) (not nonfat) 4 cups (560 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 2 tablespoons (24 g) sugar 4 tablespoons (56 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 tablespoon (18 g) kosher salt 1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature To make the bread starter, tear the ripe Mother Starter into five pieces and place all of them in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the water and mix on low speed until the mixture looks like a liquid slurry (about 2 minutes). Add the bread flour and mix on low speed until the flour is incorporated into the liquid. Switch to the dough hook and knead on medium speed for 2 minutes. The dough will be stretchy and smooth. Transfer the bread starter to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Allow to rise in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size (6 to 8 hours). Do not proceed until the bread starter has doubled fully. Once the bread starter has doubled in size, use it to make the bread dough. Place the bread starter in the bowl of your stand mixer, add the milk, and mix with the paddle attachment on low speed to soften the bread starter (about 1 minute). Add the bread flour and sugar and switch to the dough hook. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead for about 2 minutes, until the dough is once again stretchy and smooth. Add the butter, salt, and eggs, raise the mixer speed to medium, and knead for 3 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 2 days. After 2 days, the dough has a tendency to become too active and will easily overproof after being shaped. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into two equally weighted pieces. To shape the first loaf (covering the other with a moist tea towel so that it doesn’t dry out), follow the instructions on page 34 for shaping a boule. Place the shaped dough onto the prepared baking sheet, seam side down, and dust with more flour. Repeat the process with the other piece of dough. Cover both loaves with oiled plastic wrap and set to rise in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 25 minutes before the dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 350°F. Once the dough has finished rising, remove the plastic wrap, dust both loaves with more flour, and carefully slash each risen loaf horizontally near the base with a sharp knife or lame at a 45 degree angle and ¼ inch deep. Place the bread in the center of the preheated oven, quickly throw a few ice cubes into the bottom of the oven to create steam, and quickly close the oven door. Bake until lightly golden brown, and each loaf reads about 190°F in the center on an instant-read thermometer (about 40 minutes). Remove from the oven, transfer to a wire rack, and allow to cool for about 20 minutes before slicing and serving. E NO-RYE “RYE” BREAD MAKES 1 LARGE ROUND LOAF VERYBODY WHO KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT A GLUTEN-FREE DIET knows that we can’t have rye bread. It’s rye bread! And wheat, barley, and rye are the most common sources of gluten. But now, thanks to the complex flavor of our wild yeast starter, the right mix of Gluten-Free Bread Flour, plus the sorghum flour and teff flour in our Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Flour, we can mimic the taste of rye bread. Add some molasses, honey, and, of course, caraway seeds, and we can have the taste and the smell of real rye bread. No lie, this is your no-rye rye.

80 grams ripe Mother Starter, chilled or at room temperature (page 87)

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

1 cup plus 10 tablespoons (225 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

Bread Starter

1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons warm bottled water (about 95°F)

3¼ cups (455 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

½ cup (70 g) Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Flour (page 10)

1 tablespoon (18 g) kosher salt

1 tablespoon unsulfured molasses

1 tablespoon honey

1½ tablespoons caraway seeds

To make the bread starter, tear the ripe Mother Starter into five pieces and

place all of them in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle

attachment. Add the water and mix on low speed until the mixture looks like

a liquid slurry (about 2 minutes). Add the bread flour and mix on low speed

until the flour is incorporated into the liquid. Switch to the dough hook and

knead on medium speed for 2 minutes. The dough will be stretchy and

smooth. Transfer the bread starter to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket

large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the

dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap

(or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Allow to rise in a warm, draft-free

location until doubled in size (6 to 8 hours). Do not proceed until the bread

starter has doubled fully.

Once the bread starter has doubled in size, use it to make the bread

dough. Place the bread starter in the bowl of your stand mixer, add the water,

and mix with the paddle attachment on low speed to soften it (about 1

minute). Add the bread flour and the whole-grain flour and switch to the

dough hook. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead, until the dough is

stretchy and smooth. Add the salt, molasses, and honey, raise the mixer speed

to medium, and knead for 3 minutes. Add the caraway seeds and mix again

until the seeds are incorporated throughout the dough. Transfer the dough to a

lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to

double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled

top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least

12 hours and up to 2 days.

On baking day, flour a 9-inch banetton (or proofing basket) and set it

aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly

floured surface. With well-floured hands and a bench scraper, gently shape

and pat the dough into a round, sprinkling the dough very lightly with flour if

it gets very sticky. Place the dough into the banetton, seam side up. Sprinkle

the top of the dough with flour and cover loosely with a plastic bag. Place in

a warm, draft-free location until nearly doubled in size (about 2 hours).

About 25 minutes before the dough is ready to bake, preheat your oven to

450°F. Grease a 4- to 6-quart covered Dutch oven with vegetable shortening

or ghee (ghee is pure butterfat and is more heat-stable than butter). Turn the

dough out of the proofing basket and into the prepared Dutch oven, seam side

down, taking care not to deflate the dough. Reach in to the pan and slash the

raised bread horizontally near the base carefully with a sharp knife or lame

at a 45 degree angle and ¼ inch deep. Cover and place in the center of the

preheated oven. Bake for 30 minutes. Uncover the pot and continue to bake

until the loaf is deep golden brown, the center of the loaf reads about 195°F

on an instant-read thermometer, and sounds hollow when thumped on the side

(about 15 to 20 minutes).

Remove from the oven and turn the bread out of the Dutch oven onto a

wire rack to cool for 20 minutes before slicing and serving.

W

“PUMPERNICKEL” BREAD

MAKES 2 LARGE LOAVES

ELL, IF WE CAN HAVE NO-RYE “RYE” BREAD (PAGE 101), IT

SEEMS reasonable to expect that we can have pumpernickel. And I

am nothing if not reasonable. Like in our No-Rye “Rye” Bread, we rely upon

the right blend of Gluten-Free Bread Flour and our Whole-Grain Gluten-Free

Flour, plus molasses and honey. But here we add Dutch-processed cocoa

powder for depth of flavor and color, plus coarsely ground cornmeal for

added bite. The moment you taste it, you’ll “get” it.

80 grams ripe Mother Starter, chilled or at room temperature (page 87)

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

1 cup plus 10 tablespoons (225 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

Bread Starter

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon bottled water, at room temperature

2½ cups (350 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

½ cup (70 g) Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Flour (page 10)

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

¼ cup (33 g) coarsely ground gluten-free cornmeal

2 tablespoons (10 g) Dutch-processed cocoa powder

2 tablespoons unsulfured molasses

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

To make the bread starter, tear the ripe Mother Starter into five pieces and

place all of them in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle

attachment. Add the water and mix on low speed until the mixture looks like

a liquid slurry (about 2 minutes). Add the bread flour and mix on low speed

until the flour is incorporated into the liquid. Switch to the dough hook and

knead on medium speed for 2 minutes. The dough will be stretchy and

smooth. Transfer the bread starter to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket

large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the

dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap

(or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Allow to rise in a warm, draft-free

location until doubled in size (6 to 8 hours). Do not proceed until the bread

starter has doubled fully.

Once the bread starter has doubled in size, use it to make the bread

dough. Place the bread starter in the bowl of your stand mixer, add the water,

and mix with the paddle attachment on low speed to soften the bread starter

(about 1 minute). Add the bread flour and the whole-grain blend and switch

to the dough hook. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead for about 2

minutes, until the dough is once again stretchy and smooth. Add the salt,

cornmeal, cocoa powder, molasses, honey, and oil, raise the mixer speed to

medium, and knead for 3 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl

or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and

cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing

bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 2

days. After 2 days, the dough has a tendency to become too active and will

easily overproof after being shaped.

On baking day, remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto

a lightly floured surface. With well-floured hands and a bench scraper, gently

shape and pat the dough into a round, sprinkling the dough very lightly with

flour if it gets very sticky. Pull into a batard shape as directed on page 34

and place it on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle the top of the dough

with flour, and cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap and slash the raised

bread a few times on top with a sharp knife or lame about ¼ inch deep. Place

the loaf in a warm, draft-free location until nearly doubled in size (about 2

hours).

About 20 minutes before the dough has finished rising, preheat your oven

to 375°F. Once the dough has finished rising, remove the plastic wrap, place

in the center of the oven, and bake until it is dark brown, sounds hollow

when thumped on the side, and the center of the loaf reads about 195°F on an

instant-read thermometer (about 40 minutes). Remove from the oven and

transfer onto a wire rack to cool for 20 minutes before slicing and serving.

E

MAKES 12 PRETZELS

THE doughs in this book into soft pretzels, boil them in a baking soda

bath, and then bake them, these sourdough ones are my favorite. Because this

is such a simple recipe, with only a few tablespoons of butter as an

enrichment, the flavor of the sourdough starter really shines through. Truly

authentic pretzels are soaked in a water bath with food-grade lye, but

working with lye is dangerous and requires rubber gloves and eye

protection! The most common way to mimic the effect of soaking homemade

pretzels in a lye bath is to soak them in a boiling baking soda bath.

40 grams ripe Mother Starter, chilled or at room temperature (page 87)

¼ cup plus 1½ tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

13 tablespoons (115 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

1. Bread Starter 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm bottled water (about 95°F) 3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature 3 cups (420 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt Baking soda bath, for boiling (6 cups water plus 1 tablespoon baking soda plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt) Coarse salt, for sprinkling To make the bread starter, tear the ripe Mother Starter into five pieces and place all of them in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the water and mix on low speed until the mixture looks like a liquid slurry (about 2 minutes). Add the bread flour and mix on low speed until the flour is incorporated into the liquid. Switch to the dough hook and knead on medium speed for 2 minutes. The dough will be stretchy and smooth. Transfer the bread starter to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Allow to rise in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size (6 to 8 hours). Do not proceed until the bread starter has doubled fully. Once the bread starter has doubled in size, use it to make the pretzel dough. Place the bread starter in the bowl of your stand mixer, add the warm water and butter, and mix with the paddle attachment on low speed to soften the bread starter (about 1 minute). Add the bread flour and kosher salt, and switch to the dough hook. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead until the dough is stretchy and smooth. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for 12 to 18 hours. On baking day, line a large, rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper, grease lightly with cooking oil, and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into twelve parts, each about 2 ounces. Flouring the surface as necessary to keep the dough from sticking, roll each piece of dough (pressing down and out with your palms) into a rope about 8 inches long. Shape into a pretzel by turning both ends of the rope inward toward one another, crossing one end over the other in an X. Place each piece of shaped dough on the prepared baking sheet, 2 inches apart from one another. Cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap, and set in a warm, draft-free location to rise until nearly doubled in size (about 1 hour). As the dough nears the end of its rise, preheat your oven to 375°F. In a large pot, make a baking soda bath by dissolving 1 tablespoon of baking soda in 6 cups of water (approximate measurements are fine here), with 1 teaspoon of kosher salt added for flavor. Simply bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high to high heat. Once the dough has finished rising, place the pretzels a few at a time into the boiling baking soda bath for just under a minute per side. Remove the pretzels with a strainer and return them to the baking sheet. Sprinkle with coarse salt. Place the pretzels in the center of the preheated oven and bake until golden brown all over (about 20 minutes). Allow to cool on the pan briefly before serving. M “RYE” BAGELS MAKES 6 BAGELS AKING GLUTEN-FREE “RYE” BAGELS IS ITS OWN SORT OF VICTORY. Almost everyone has to live without a good rye bagel. They are just so inexplicably hard to come by! In fact, I predict that, if you’re not terribly careful, you will have your gluten-full friends putting in orders for these bagels if they catch wind of your making these. So let’s just keep it between us. If you’re looking for more traditional plain and whole-grain bagels, you’ll find just what you’re looking for in Chapter
3. 6.

40 grams ripe Mother Starter, chilled or at room temperature (page 87)

¼ cup plus 1½ tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

13 tablespoons (115 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

Bread Starter

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

1 cup plus 10 tablespoons (228 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus

more for sprinkling

¼ cup (35 g) Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Flour (page 10)

1½ teaspoons (9 g) kosher salt

1½ teaspoons unsulfured molasses

1½ teaspoons honey

1 tablespoon caraway seeds, plus more for sprinkling

Molasses bath, for boiling (6 cups water plus 1 tablespoon molasses plus 1

teaspoon kosher salt)

Egg wash (1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten with 1 tablespoon water)

To make the bread starter, tear the ripe Mother Starter into five pieces and

place all of them in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle

attachment. Add the water and mix on low speed until the mixture looks like

a liquid slurry (about 2 minutes). Add the bread flour and mix on low speed

until the flour is incorporated into the liquid. Switch to the dough hook and

knead on medium speed for 2 minutes. The dough will be stretchy and

smooth. Transfer the bread starter to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket

large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the

dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap

(or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Allow to rise in a warm, draft-free

location until doubled in size (6 to 8 hours). Do not proceed until the bread

starter has doubled fully.

Once the bread starter has doubled in size, use it to make the bread

dough. Place the bread starter in the bowl of your stand mixer, add the water,

and mix with the paddle attachment on low speed to soften the bread starter

(about 1 minute). Add the bread flour and the whole-grain flour and switch to

the dough hook. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead until the dough is

stretchy and smooth. Add the salt, molasses, and honey, raise the mixer speed

to medium, and knead for 3 minutes. Add the caraway seeds, and mix again

until the seeds are incorporated throughout the dough. Transfer the dough to a

lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to

double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled

top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for 12 to 18

hours.

On baking day, line a large, rimmed baking sheet with unbleached

parchment paper, grease lightly with cooking oil, and set it aside. Remove

the dough from the refrigerator, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and

knead until smooth. Divide the dough into six parts. To shape each piece of

dough, follow the instructions on page 38 for shaping bagels. Place each

piece of bagel-shaped dough on the prepared baking sheet, 2 inches apart

from one another. Cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap, and set in a warm,

draft-free location to rise until nearly doubled in size (about 1 hour). About

25 minutes before the dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 375°F.

As the dough nears the end of its rise, make the molasses bath by

dissolving 1 tablespoon of molasses and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt in 6 cups

of water (approximate measurements are fine here). Bring the mixture to a

boil over medium-high to high heat. Once the dough has finished rising, place

the shaped bagels, a few at a time, into the boiling bath for just less than a

minute per side. Remove the bagels with a strainer and return them to the

baking sheet. Brush the boiled bagels with the egg wash and sprinkle with

caraway seeds. Repeat with the remaining bagels. Place them in the center of

the preheated oven and bake until the bagels are golden brown all over

(about 20 minutes). Allow to cool on the pan briefly before serving.

I

“PUMPERNICKEL” BAGELS

MAKES 6 BAGELS

N THESE BAGELS, AS IN THE “PUMPERNICKEL” BREAD (PAGE

105), WE marry whole-grain flours, cocoa powder, and coarsely ground

cornmeal to match the color, flavor, and even the texture of traditional

pumpernickel. I’ve always thought that pumpernickel bagels were best

enjoyed lightly toasted, with nothing more than a warm pat of salted butter.

40 grams ripe Mother Starter, chilled or at room temperature (page 87)

¼ cup plus 1½ tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

13 tablespoons (115 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

Bread Starter

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon bottled water, at room temperature

1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

¼ cup (35 g) Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Flour (page 10)

2 tablespoons (17 g) coarsely ground gluten-free cornmeal

1 tablespoon (5 g) Dutch-processed cocoa powder

1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt

1 tablespoon unsulfured molasses

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon canola oil

Molasses bath, for boiling (6 cups water plus 1 tablespoon molasses plus 1

teaspoon kosher salt)

Egg wash (1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten with 1 tablespoon water)

To make the bread starter, tear the ripe Mother Starter into five pieces and

place all of them in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle

attachment. Add the water and mix on low speed until the mixture looks like

a liquid slurry (about 2 minutes). Add the bread flour and mix on low speed

until the flour is incorporated into the liquid. Switch to the dough hook and

knead on medium speed for 2 minutes. The dough will be stretchy and

smooth. Transfer the bread starter to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket

large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the

dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap

(or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Allow to rise in a warm, draft-free

location until doubled in size (6 to 8 hours). Do not proceed until the bread

starter has doubled fully.

Once the bread starter has doubled in size, use it to make the bread

dough. Place the bread starter in the bowl of your stand mixer, add the water,

and mix with the paddle attachment on low speed to soften the bread starter

(about 1 minute). Add the bread flour and the whole-grain blend and switch

to the dough hook. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead for about 2

minutes, until the dough is once again stretchy and smooth. Add the cornmeal,

cocoa powder, salt, molasses, honey, and oil, raise the mixer speed to

medium, and knead for 3 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl

or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and

cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing

bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for 12 to 18 hours.

On baking day, line a large, rimmed baking sheet with unbleached

parchment paper, grease lightly with cooking oil, and set it aside. Remove

the dough from the refrigerator, turn out the dough onto a lightly floured

surface, and knead until smooth. Divide the dough into six parts. To shape

each piece of dough, follow the instructions on page 38 for shaping bagels.

Place each piece of bagel-shaped dough on the prepared baking sheet, each 2

inches apart from one another. Cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap, and set

in a warm, draft-free location to rise until nearly doubled in size (about 1

hour). About 25 minutes before the dough has finished rising, preheat your

oven to 375°F.

As the dough nears the end of its rise, make the molasses bath by

dissolving 1 tablespoon of molasses and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt in 6 cups

of water (approximate measurements are fine here). Bring the mixture to a

boil over medium-high to high heat. Once the dough has finished rising, place

the bagels a few at a time into the boiling bath for just less than a minute per

side. Remove the bagels with a strainer and return them to the baking sheet.

Brush the boiled bagels with the egg wash. Repeat with the remaining bagels.

Place them in the center of the preheated oven and bake until the bagels are

dark brown all over (about 20 minutes). Allow to cool on the pan briefly

before serving.

E

MAKES 6 BAGELS

VEN MOST CONVENTIONAL, GLUTEN-CONTAINING

SOURDOUGH bagels aren’t really sourdough. They’re really just plain

bagels that someone who thought he was clever stuck in the basket that says

“sourdough” at the bagel place. This recipe makes real, sour sourdough

bagels, using the wild yeast starter (pages 83–90), which is unique in its

ability to lend that truly organic tang of pure sourdough. The dough has

relatively low hydration, as any real bagel does, and the use of the starter

gives rise to a less brown, more golden color that plain bagels simply do not

achieve.

80 grams ripe Mother Starter (page 87)

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

1 cup plus 10 tablespoons (225 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

Bread Starter

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons warm bottled water (about 95°F)

2¼ cups (315 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt

Molasses bath, for boiling (6 cups water plus 1 tablespoon molasses plus 1

teaspoon kosher salt)

Egg wash (1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten with 1 tablespoon water)

To make the bread starter, tear the ripe Mother Starter into five pieces and

place all of them in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle

attachment. Add the water and mix on low speed until the mixture looks like

a liquid slurry (about 2 minutes). Add the bread flour and mix on low speed

until the flour is incorporated into the liquid. Switch to the dough hook and

knead on medium speed for 2 minutes. The dough will be stretchy and

smooth. Transfer the bread starter to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket

large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the

dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap

(or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Allow to rise in a warm, draft-free

location until doubled in size (6 to 8 hours). Do not proceed until the bread

starter has doubled fully.

Once the bread starter has doubled in size, use it to make the bagel

dough. Place the bread starter in the bowl of your stand mixer, add the warm

water, and mix with the paddle attachment on low speed to soften the bread

starter (about 1 minute). Add the bread flour and salt and switch to the dough

hook. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead until the dough is stretchy and

smooth. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large

enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece

of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in

the refrigerator for 12 to 18 hours.

On baking day, line a large, rimmed baking sheet with unbleached

parchment paper, grease lightly with cooking oil, and set it aside. Remove

the dough from the refrigerator, turn out onto a lightly floured surface, and

knead until smooth. Divide the dough into six parts. To shape each piece of

dough, follow the instructions on page 38 for shaping bagels. Place each

piece of bagel-shaped dough on the prepared baking sheet, 2 inches from one

another. Cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap, and set in a warm, draft-free

location to rise until nearly doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 25 minutes

before the dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 375°F.

As the dough nears the end of its rise, make the molasses bath by

dissolving 1 tablespoon of molasses and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt in 6 cups

of water (approximate measurements are fine here). Bring the mixture to a

boil over medium-high to high heat. Once the dough has finished rising, place

the bagel-shaped dough, a few at a time, into the boiling bath, for less than a

minute per side. Remove the bagels with a strainer and return them to the

baking sheet. Brush the boiled bagels with the egg wash. Repeat with the

remaining bagels. Place them in the center of the preheated oven and bake

until the bagels are golden brown all over (about 20 minutes). Allow to cool

on the pan briefly before serving.

W

MAKES 16 PANCAKES

ITH JUST A LITTLE ADVANCE PLANNING, SOURDOUGH

PANCAKES are just as easy to make as regular pancakes but, of

course, way more special. The tang of the starter gives these light and fluffy

pancakes enough depth of flavor that I like them best plain, or maybe with a

few fresh berries on top.

80 grams ripe Mother Starter (page 87)

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons bottled water, at room temperature

2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

2 tablespoons (24 g) sugar

1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon milk, at room temperature (not nonfat, plus more if

necessary)

3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for

greasing the skillet

2 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten

½ teaspoon baking soda

Tear the ripe Mother Starter into five pieces and place all of them in the

bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the water and

mix on low speed until the mixture looks like a liquid slurry (about 2

minutes). Add the flour, sugar, and salt to the bowl, then 1 cup of the milk,

then the butter, and mix with the paddle attachment first on low speed, and

then on medium speed until the batter is smooth (about 3 minutes). Cover the

bowl (or transfer to another bowl large enough to allow the starter to double

in size), and leave it out at room temperature overnight. The batter will

nearly double.

When you are ready to cook the pancakes, line a rimmed baking sheet

with parchment paper and set it aside. Preheat your oven to 200°F, as you’ll

use the oven to keep the first batches of pancakes warm while you make the

rest. Heat a large (ideally, cast-iron) skillet over medium heat and brush with

a thin layer of unsalted butter. Immediately before cooking the pancakes, stir

down the pancake batter, add the beaten eggs and baking soda, and mix to

combine well. The batter will be relatively thick, but should be very thickly

pourable. Add more milk by the teaspoon as necessary to achieve the proper

consistency. It will never be a thin batter that is as pourable as traditional

pancake batter. Ladle the pancake batter into the hot skillet in rounds,

smoothing them out to about 5 inches in diameter and about ¼ inch thick. As

the pancakes cook on the underside, bubbles will form but few will break

through the surface. Once the pancakes are mostly set (about 1½ minutes),

carefully flip them over and press down on the cooked side with a wide

spatula to sear the other side. The pancakes should have nearly cooked all

the way through before you flip them, but finish on the second side for at least

30 seconds or until set.

Transfer the cooked pancakes from the skillet to the prepared baking

sheet. Place the baking sheet in the preheated oven to stay warm until you

have finished with all of the pancake batter. Brush the skillet lightly with

more unsalted butter, and repeat with the remaining batter. Serve the

pancakes warm.

6 ROLLS AND OTHER SHAPED

SMALLER BREADS SHAPED INTO BAGELS,

ROLLS, ENGLISH MUFFINS, KNOTS, AND

T

MAKES 8 MUFFINS

CRANNIES in real English muffins are a very high-rising bread

(check), which is then fork-split to reveal all those yeasty holes in irregular

fashion (check). Searing them first in a hot, dry cast-iron skillet before

finishing them in the oven ensures a lightly crisp outside, and muffin rings

coax the relatively shapeless dough into a tall, round muffin. If you don’t

have special muffin rings, you can order them online, or try using large round

cookie cutters or even cutting 1-inch-tall rings out of an empty and sanitized

aluminum can. Because this dough has very high hydration, it requires only

one, exceedingly short, rise. And a last-minute addition of baking soda to the

dough supercharges the muffins’ oven-spring.

2½ cups (350 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar

2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast

1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt

2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ cups warm water (about 95°F)

Coarsely ground gluten-free cornmeal, for sprinkling

1 teaspoon baking soda

Place the flour, sugar, and yeast in a large bowl and whisk to combine well.

Add the salt, then the butter and water, whisking to combine well after each

addition. The dough will be very wet. Cover with oiled plastic wrap and set

aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise for 30 minutes.

Line two small, rimmed baking sheets with unbleached parchment paper

and set them aside. Preheat your oven to 325°F.

Place a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. While the pan is

heating, grease four metal English muffin rings and place them in the hot pan.

Sprinkle a little bit of cornmeal inside each ring. Uncover the bowl of dough

and scrape half of the dough into a separate bowl. Mix ½ teaspoon of the

baking soda into one bowl, and then fill the rings in the pan about threequarters

of the way full with the bread dough. Sprinkle a bit more cornmeal

on top of each muffin, cover the pan, and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the

cover of the pan, flip the rings with the muffins inside (using tongs), cover

again, and cook for 5 minutes more. Transfer the muffins in the rings to one of

the prepared baking sheets, and place it in the preheated oven to bake until

the internal temperature reaches 195°F (7 to 10 minutes).

Add the remaining ½ teaspoon of baking soda to the remaining dough and

mix well. Grease four more English muffin rings, place them in the hot pan,

and repeat the same process as before to cook both sides of the remaining

English muffins. Transfer the muffins in their rings to the remaining prepared

baking sheet of the muffins. Place the baking sheet in the preheated oven and

bake until the internal temperature of the muffins reaches 195°F on an instantread

thermometer (7 to 10 minutes). Allow to cool very briefly. Split each

muffin with a fork by inserting the tines in the center of the muffin along the

middle, parallel to the muffin itself, and then gently prying open with your

fingers. Serve warm.

H

MAKES 2 CIABATTAS

BREAD baking. The more moisture you have, typically the less yeast

you need. And vice versa. This is a very, very wet dough, and it has less

yeast than many of the other breads in this book. It is particularly important to

let it rise slowly for days in the refrigerator before shaping and baking it. It

not only makes handling the dough possible, but it allows even that

comparatively little bit of yeast to develop a truly complex flavor. So

although you can bake and shape it after the dough spends a mere 12 hours in

the refrigerator, aim for closer to the 5-day mark.

1 cup (140 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

1⅓ teaspoons (4 g) instant yeast

¾ cup water, at room temperature

1 tablespoon honey

2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

¾ teaspoon cream of tartar

1 (6 g) teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar

¾ cup water, at room temperature

Starter

Make the starter. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together the bread flour and

yeast. Add the water and honey, and mix with a wooden spoon until smooth.

Cover tightly with oiled plastic wrap and set aside until it has more than

doubled in size and filled with bubbles (about an hour).

Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour,

cream of tartar, salt, and sugar in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a

handheld whisk to combine well. Add the water and risen starter to the bowl,

and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer

speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. When you lift the dough

hook, a trail of dough from the hook to the bowl should be intact for at least

the count of five. The dough will be quite sticky. Spray a silicone spatula

lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for

the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic

wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the

refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days.

On baking day, remove the dough from the refrigerator, scatter a generous

amount of flour on a flat surface, and scrape the dough out of the bowl on top

of the flour. Turn the dough over on itself with a lightly oiled bench scraper.

It will remain very sticky. Divide the dough into two equal pieces, and place

both carefully on a parchment-lined half-sheet baking sheet. With lightly

oiled hands, press each piece of dough into a rectangle 10 inches long by 4

inches wide and 1 inch high. Dust both pieces of dough with flour, then cover

them loosely with greased plastic wrap and let rise until at least doubled in

size (about 2 hours).

About 20 minutes before the dough is fully risen, preheat your oven to

400°F and place a pizza stone on the lower rack. Once the dough has finished

rising, using a pizza peel, slide the dough, already on parchment paper, on the

pizza stone. Throw some ice cubes in the bottom of the oven and quickly

close the door. Bake at 400°F for 5 minutes. Lower the heat to 375°F, and

bake for another 10 minutes or until the center of each loaf reaches 205°F on

an instant-read thermometer. Turn off the heat and prop open the oven door,

leaving the bread inside for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow the

bread to cool for about 20 minutes before slicing and serving.

A

PLAIN (OR SEEDED) BAGELS

MAKES 6 BAGELS

BAGEL IS A SPECIAL THING. IT ISN’T JUST A ROLL WITH AN

UNFORTUNATE hole in the middle. It is a relatively simple, stiff

dough, but it is boiled in a molasses bath before being baked to achieve its

crispy-on-the-outside, chewy-on-the-inside perfection. Just be sure not to

add extra moisture to the dough because you’re worried that it’s too stiff.

Otherwise, the bagels will rise too much and fall apart before you can boil

them. I always sprinkle seeds on top of the egg wash right before baking, as

bagels are simply much prettier with seeds. But the fact that a plain bagel

with butter is one of life’s simple pleasures is not lost on me.

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 1 teaspoon (3 g) instant yeast
• 2½ tablespoons (30 g) sugar
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

⅔ teaspoon (2 g) instant yeast

2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt

Starter

Molasses bath, for boiling (6 cups water plus 1 tablespoon molasses plus 1

teaspoon kosher salt)

Egg wash (1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten with 1 tablespoon water)

Sesame and/or poppy seeds, for sprinkling (optional)

To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl,

and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless.

Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until

doubled (about 40 minutes).

Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and

yeast in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine

well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the risen starter to the bowl,

and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer

speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. It will be very sticky dough,

and because it is such a stiff dough, it will not trail from the dough hook

when you raise the hook out of the bowl. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with

cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough

to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise

to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled

top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least

12 hours and up to 5 days.

On baking day, line a large, rimmed baking sheet with unbleached

parchment paper, grease it lightly with cooking oil, and set it aside. Remove

the dough from the refrigerator and, on a lightly floured surface, knead lightly

as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter 3 until smooth. Divide

the dough into six parts. To shape each piece of dough, follow the

instructions on page 38 for shaping bagels. Place each piece of bagel-shaped

dough on the prepared baking sheet, 2 inches apart from one another. Cover

with lightly oiled plastic wrap, and set in a warm, draft-free location to rise

until nearly doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 25 minutes before the

dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 375°F.

As the dough nears the end of its rise, make the molasses bath by

dissolving 1 tablespoon of molasses and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt in 6 cups

of water (approximate measurements are fine here). Bring the mixture to a

boil over medium-high to high heat. Once the dough has finished rising, place

the shaped bagels a few at a time into the boiling bath for less than a minute

per side. Remove the bagels with a strainer and return them to the baking

sheet. Brush the boiled bagels with the egg wash, and sprinkle with seeds, if

using. Repeat with the remaining bagels. Place the baking sheet in the center

of the preheated oven and bake until the bagels are golden brown all over

(about 20 minutes). Allow to cool on the pan briefly before serving.

O

WHOLE-GRAIN BAGELS

MAKES 6 BAGELS

THER THAN REPLACING SOME OF THE GLUTEN-FREE BREAD

flour with my gluten-free whole-grain blend and adding some butter to

the dough, this recipe is very much like our Plain (or Seeded) Bagels (page

126). But it does boast that wheaty bite that a plain bagel simply cannot offer.

¾ cup (105 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

¾ cup (105 g) Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Flour (page 10)

1 teaspoon (3 g) instant yeast

2½ tablespoons (30 g) sugar

1 cup water, at room temperature

2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

⅔ teaspoon (2 g) instant yeast

2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt

Starter

2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Molasses bath, for boiling: 3 quarts water plus 1 tablespoon molasses plus 1

teaspoon kosher salt

Egg wash (1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten with 1 tablespoon water)

To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl,

and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless.

Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until

doubled (about 40 minutes).

Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and

yeast in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine

well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add risen starter and butter to the

bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the

mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. It will be very sticky

dough, and because it is such a stiff dough, it will not trail from the dough

hook when you raise the hook out of the bowl. Spray a silicone spatula

lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for

the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic

wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the

refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days.

On baking day, line a large, rimmed baking sheet with unbleached

parchment paper, grease it lightly with cooking oil, and set it aside. Remove

the dough from the refrigerator and, on a lightly floured surface, knead lightly

as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter 3 until smooth. Divide

the dough into six parts. To shape each piece of dough, follow the

instructions on page 38 for shaping bagels. Place each piece of bagel-shaped

dough on the prepared baking sheet, 2 inches apart from one another. Cover

with lightly oiled plastic wrap, and set in a warm, draft-free location to rise

until nearly doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 25 minutes before the

dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 375°F.

As the dough nears the end of its rise, make the molasses bath by

dissolving 1 tablespoon of molasses and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt in 6 cups

of water (approximate measurements are fine here). Bring the mixture to a

boil over medium-high to high heat. Once the dough has finished rising, place

the shaped bagels a few at a time into the boiling bath for less than a minute

per side. Remove the bagels with a strainer and return them to the baking

sheet. Brush the boiled bagels with the egg wash. Repeat with the remaining

bagels. Place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven and bake

until the bagels are golden brown all over (about 20 minutes). Allow to cool

on the pan briefly before serving.

T

MAKES 16 KNOTS

MAKING garlic knots, or any sort of knot with bread dough. It will rise

after you shape it. So you don’t want (nor does the dough really allow you to

make) a tight knot. Just roll a rope of dough and cross one end over the other,

about 1½ inches from the ends. Poke one end through the loop you created,

and set the knot to rise. It will plump and swell as it rises.

• 1 cup (140 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 1⅔ teaspoons (7 g) instant yeast
• 1½ teaspoons (6 g) sugar
• 1 cup water, at room temperature

2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt

Starter

Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

4 tablespoons (56 g) ghee or unsalted butter

3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt

To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl,

and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless.

Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until

doubled (about 40 minutes).

Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and

salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine

well. Add the risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough

hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5

minutes. It will be very sticky dough, and because it is such a stiff dough, it

will not trail from the dough hook when you raise the hook out of the bowl.

Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the

sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing

bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an

oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place

the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days.

On baking day, line a large, rimmed baking sheet with unbleached

parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator

and, on a lightly floured surface, knead as described in the General Shaping

Tips in Chapter 3 until smooth. Divide the dough in half, then each half in

half, and finally each fourth into four parts, until you have sixteen pieces of

equal size. Flouring the surface as necessary to keep the dough from sticking,

roll each piece of dough (pressing down and out with your palms) into a thin

rope about 8 inches long. Shape each into a knot by dusting the rope of dough

with flour and crossing one end over the other about 1½ inches from the

ends. Poke one end through the loop you created and lay that end on top of the

knot. Turn the knot on its side and place it on the prepared baking sheet.

Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, placing them 2 inches apart from

one another on the prepared baking sheet. Cover with lightly oiled plastic

wrap, and set in a warm, draft-free location to rise until nearly doubled in

size (about 1 hour). About 25 minutes before the dough has finished rising,

preheat your oven to 375°F.

Once the dough has finished rising, uncover the knots and brush them with

olive oil. Place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven and bake

until the knots are just beginning to brown, 10 to 12 minutes.

While the knots are baking, make the topping. Place the ghee, garlic, and

salt in a small saucepan and sauté the garlic over medium heat, stirring

frequently, until the garlic becomes fragrant (about 2 minutes). Remove the

saucepan from the heat and set it aside. Remove the knots from the oven,

brush them generously with the garlic topping, and serve warm.

I

MAKES 6 ROLLS

HAVE ALWAYS KNOWN THESE AS TIGER ROLLS. YOU MAY

KNOW THEM as Dutch Crunch rolls. We are both talking about the same

thing, whatever its name: yeasted round rolls with a lightly sweet, yeasty, and

crunchy rice flour topping that crackles as the rolls bake.

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast
• 1½ tablespoons (18 g) sugar
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

2¼ cups (315 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt

1 tablespoon honey

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons water, at room temperature

Starter

1. ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons water, at room temperature 1½ teaspoons (heavy 5 g) instant yeast 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons (28 g) melted butter ½ cup (80 g) superfine rice flour To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour, cream of tartar, and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the honey, water, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. With a floured bench scraper, divide the dough into six pieces of equal size. To shape each piece of dough, follow the instructions on page 32 for shaping small, round rolls. Place the first shaped roll on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, and place the rolls 3 inches apart from one another on the prepared baking sheet. Cover the baking sheet with oiled plastic wrap and set it aside to rise for 30 minutes. After the 30-minute rise, make the topping: Whisk together the water and the yeast, then add the remaining ingredients, one at a time, whisking well to combine after each addition. Spread the mixture over the top of each roll as it is rising. Allow the rolls to continue to rise, uncovered, until fully doubled (about another 45 minutes). About 20 minutes before the rolls have completed their final rise, preheat your oven to 375°F. Once the rolls have finished rising, place the baking sheet on the bottom rack of the preheated oven until the topping is set, lightly browned and crackled, and the rolls are lightly golden brown with an internal temperature of about 190°F on an instant-read thermometer (about 25 minutes). Let cool briefly before serving. P

MAKES 8 PITAS

ROMISE ME YOU WON’T LET PITA BREAD STRESS YOU OUT. A

MOIST dough in a hot oven, on a hot pizza stone should make your pitas

“pop,” creating a pocket for you to stuff to your heart’s content. Sometimes,

they just won’t “pop.” Maybe the oven isn’t hot enough, or the air doesn’t

circulate well enough or the dough just isn’t exactly wet enough. No worries.

Just slice off an edge of the baked dough, and coax open a pocket with a

sharp knife. They’ll taste just the same—and will still allow themselves to

be stuffed.

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 1 teaspoon (3 g) instant yeast
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1¾ cups (245 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

1 teaspoon (3 g) instant yeast

2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons water, at room temperature

Starter

To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl,

and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless.

Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until

doubled (about 40 minutes).

Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour,

cream of tartar, and yeast in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld

whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the olive

oil, water, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough

hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5

minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy.

Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the

sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing

bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an

oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place

the dough in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours and up to 5 days.

On baking day, preheat your oven to 400°F about 25 minutes before

baking. Place a pizza stone on the bottom rack of your oven during heating.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured

surface. Sprinkle the dough with additional bread flour, and, using a lightly

oiled bench scraper, knead lightly, as described in the General Shaping Tips

in Chapter 3, until smoother. With a floured bench scraper, divide the dough

in half, and then each resulting portion in half again and again until you have

eight pieces of equal size. Shape each piece into a ball, then roll into a disk 6

inches in diameter, about ¼ inch thick in the center, and thinner as you work

toward the edge.

Place the pitas, three at a time, directly on the hot pizza stone and bake

for 3 to 4 minutes, or until puffed but not very brown. Wrap the pitas in a tea

towel to keep them soft and warm until you are ready to serve them.

T

MAKES 8 ROLLS

HIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT ROLL . . . WITH A VERY UNCERTAIN

name. Hoagies, grinders, subs, heros. They’re all roughly the same,

when it comes to sandwich making. When I say “hoagie roll,” I mean a soft

tubular roll with a light crust on the outside. A roll by any other name would

be as versatile. Would it not?

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar
• 1⅔ teaspoons (5 g) instant yeast
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 3½ cups (490 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 1½ teaspoons (18 g) kosher salt 1½ teaspoons honey 3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature ¾ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature 1 large egg, at room temperature Starter To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the honey, butter, yogurt, egg, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. With a floured bench scraper, divide the dough in half, and then each resulting portion in half again and again until you have eight pieces of equal size. Shape each piece of dough into a hoagie roll, one at a time. To shape each piece of dough, follow the instructions on page 35 for shaping hoagie rolls. Place the first shaped roll on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, and place the rolls 3 inches apart from one another on the prepared baking sheet. Dust the rolls with flour, then cover the baking sheet with oiled plastic wrap and set it aside to rise for about 45 minutes or until the rolls are just a bit more than 150 percent of their original size (do not overproof). Dust with flour again, slash down the center of each roll at a 45-degree angle, just less than ¼ inch deep. Place in a cold oven, turn on the oven to 350°F, and bake for 20 minutes, or until the rolls are golden brown all over and the internal temperature reaches 185°F on an instant-read thermometer. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before slicing and serving. T

MAKES 6 BUNS

SOFT, ENRICHED dough, and then cutting out rounds. This technique

ensures that the buns will rise up much more than they will rise out. As

written, the instructions call for a 4-inch biscuit or cookie cutter, but there

isn’t a reason in the world that you can’t cut these into 2½-inch rounds and

make slider buns. When in doubt, err on the side of slightly underbaking

rather than overbaking these rolls. That way, they’ll stay soft and almost

squishy when you bite into them.

3 tablespoons (25 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

½ cup water, at room temperature

1. 3 cups (420 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar ¼ cup (48 g) sugar 2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature ½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature ⅔ cup milk, at room temperature (not nonfat) Water roux Unsalted butter, for brushing tops of buns Toasted sesame seeds, for sprinkling (optional) To make the water roux, whisk together the flour and water in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat, whisking constantly, until thickened. It is ready when the whisk leaves a visible trail as it moves through the roux. Remove from the heat and allow to cool until no longer hot to the touch. To make the dough, place the flour, cream of tartar, sugar, and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the butter, yogurt, milk, and water roux, then attach the dough hook to the stand mixer, and mix on low speed until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and mix for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Place the dough on a lightly oiled piece of unbleached parchment paper and sprinkle the top with flour. Roll out the dough ½ inch thick, and with a floured 4-inch biscuit or cookie cutter, cut out rounds. Place the rounds on the prepared baking sheet, about 3 inches apart from one another. Gather and reroll the remaining scraps of dough, and cut out the rest of the rounds. Place the rounds on the baking sheet and sprinkle the tops of the rounds lightly with flour. Cover the baking sheet with lightly oiled plastic wrap, and place in a warm, draft-free location until nearly doubled in size (about 1½ hours). About 25 minutes before the buns have finished rising, preheat your oven to 350°F. Once the dough has finished rising, remove the plastic wrap, place the baking sheet in the preheated oven, and bake for about 10 minutes. Turn the heat down to 325°F, remove the buns from the oven, brush the tops of the rolls with the melted butter, and sprinkle with sesame seeds, if using. Return the baking sheet to the oven and bake until the internal temperature of the buns reaches about 185°F (another 5 to 10 minutes, no more, so the buns stay soft). Allow the buns to cool for about 10 minutes before slicing and serving. T SOFT HOT-DOG BUNS MAKES 6 BUNS HESE BUNS ARE SHAPED MUCH LIKE A HOAGIE ROLL (SEE PAGE 35), but when they are slashed before baking, you go a little deeper into the dough. That way, they open, or “bloom,” more deeply during baking and magically transform themselves into hot-dog buns. If they don’t bloom quite enough during baking, just deepen the slash as they come out of the oven.

3 tablespoons (25 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

½ cup water, at room temperature

1. 3 cups (420 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar ¼ cup (48 g) sugar 2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature ½ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature ⅔ cup milk, at room temperature (not nonfat) Water roux Unsalted butter, for brushing tops of buns To make the water roux, whisk together the flour and water in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat, whisking constantly, until thickened. It is ready when the whisk leaves a visible trail as it moves through the roux. Remove from heat and allow to cool until no longer hot to the touch. To make the dough, place the flour, cream of tartar, sugar, and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the butter, yogurt, milk, and water roux, then attach the dough hook to the stand mixer, and mix on low speed until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and mix for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. With a floured bench scraper, divide the dough into six pieces of equal size. Shape each piece of dough into a hot-dog bun, one at a time. To shape the first bun, follow the instructions on page 35 for shaping hoagie rolls. Place the shaped bun on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, and place the buns 3 inches apart from one another on the prepared baking sheet. Dust the loaves with flour, then cover the baking sheet with oiled plastic wrap and set it aside to rise for about 45 minutes, or until they are just a bit more than 150 percent of their original size (do not overproof). About 25 minutes before the buns have finished rising, preheat your oven to 350°F. Once the dough has finished rising, remove the plastic wrap, dust the top of the buns with flour, and slash down the center of each bun at a 45- degree angle, just less than ½ inch deep (deeper than a hoagie roll). Place the baking sheet in the preheated oven and bake for about 10 minutes. Turn the oven temperature down to 325°F, remove the buns from the oven, and brush the tops with the melted butter. Return the baking sheet to the oven and bake until the internal temperature of the buns is about 185°F (another 5 to 10 minutes, no more, so they stay soft). If necessary to create a split deep enough to fit a hot dog, slice into the slash to deepen it and scrape out some of the soft center of the bread. Allow to cool for about 10 minutes before serving. T

SERVES 6 TO 8

HIS DOUGH IS A DREAM TO SHAPE. THERE IS ENOUGH

BUTTER IN it to make it smooth and supple without becoming dry

during baking. If you don’t think you can commit to a whole 5 cups of glutenfree

bread flour (and an entire tube pan of monkey bread), just halve the

recipe right down the middle. It will work beautifully, and if you bake it in a

9-inch round spring form pan, it will still make a lovely presentation.

5 cups (700 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

6 tablespoons (72 g) sugar

3⅓ teaspoons (10 g) instant yeast

1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt

6 tablespoons (84 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 cups warm milk (about 95°F) (not nonfat)

6 tablespoons (84 g) unsalted butter, melted

1 cup (218 g) packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

Place the flour, cream of tartar, sugar, and yeast in the bowl of your stand

mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to

combine. Add the butter and milk, and mix on low speed with the dough hook

until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5

minutes. The dough should be somewhat sticky, but smooth and supple. Spray

a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides

of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket

large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled

piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the

dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days.

On baking day, preheat your oven to 400°F about 25 minutes before

baking. Grease well a Bundt or tube pan and set it aside. Place the melted

butter for the topping in a small bowl. Place the brown sugar and cinnamon

for the topping in a separate small bowl and whisk to combine. Set both

bowls aside.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly

floured surface. Sprinkle the dough with additional bread flour and, using a

lightly oiled bench scraper, knead lightly as described in the General Shaping

Tips in Chapter 3 until smoother. With a floured bench scraper, divide the

dough into about fifty pieces, each about 1 ounce. With well-floured hands,

roll each piece of dough into a ball between your floured palms. Dip each

ball in the melted butter from the topping, and then in the cinnamon sugar.

Stack and stagger the balls of dough in concentric circles in the prepared pan

(as pictured). Sprinkle any remaining cinnamon sugar on the top of the dough.

Cover the pan with oiled plastic wrap and set in a warm, draft-free location

to rise until doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 20 minutes before the end

of the rise, preheat your oven to 350°F.

If using a tube pan with a removable bottom, wrap the bottom in foil, as

cinnamon and sugar will leak out during baking. Place the pan in the center of

the preheated oven and bake until the sugar has begun to caramelize and the

bread is lightly golden brown (about 30 minutes).

Let cool in the pan for about 5 minutes, then run a toothpick along the

sides of the pan to make sure that nothing is stuck. If your tube pan has a

removable bottom, unmold the bottom and invert onto a serving platter. If not,

invert the pan over the neck of a glass bottle until the bread begins to fall out

of the pan. Remove the bottle and turn out the bread onto a serving platter.

Serve warm.

L

MAKES 12 BUNS

IKE PANETTONE BREAD (PAGE 76) IN DECEMBER, HOT CROSS

BUNS are nearly everywhere in the spring. They have more than a

couple of spices, but if you are leaning toward leaving out any of them, don’t

let it be the cardamom! Cardamom is the telltale spice of the hot cross bun.

Make sure they are fully cooled before adding the icing cross, or it will melt

right into the warm buns.

3¼ cups (455 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

½ cup (100 g) sugar

2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

¾ teaspoon (about 5 g) kosher salt

Zest of 1 medium-size lemon (about 1 teaspoon)

Zest of 1 small orange (about 1 teaspoon)

1 teaspoon gluten-free vanilla extract

1 cup warm milk (about 95°F) (not nonfat)

6 tablespoons (84 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten

6 ounces dried currants

1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten

¼ cup (29 g) confectioners’ sugar

1. 1 cup (115 g) confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons milk Place the flour, sugar, yeast, cream of tartar, cardamom, cinnamon, allspice, and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the lemon and orange zest, and whisk to combine well, working to break up any clumps in the citrus zest. Add the vanilla, milk, butter, and eggs, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Add the currants and turn the mixer on low speed to knead the dough until the currants are evenly distributed throughout. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. With a floured bench scraper, divide the dough into twelve pieces of equal size (each just over 3 ounces). To shape each piece of dough, follow the instructions on page 32 for shaping small, round rolls. Place the first shaped bun on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, and place the buns 3 inches apart from one another on the prepared baking sheet. Cover the baking sheet with oiled plastic wrap and set it in a warm, draft-free location to rise for 40 minutes or until doubled in size. Slash a cross or X in each bun with a sharp knife or lame at a 45-degree angle, about ¼ inch deep. It is into these slashes that you will pipe an icing cross on the baked and cooled buns. Make the glaze by beating the egg with the confectioners’ sugar until smooth. Uncover the mostly risen buns and brush them generously with the glaze, but not so generously that the glaze pools on the baking sheet or it will burn during baking. Allow the buns to finish rising, uncovered, until fully doubled in size (about 20 minutes more). While the buns are completing their rise, preheat your oven to 350°F. Place the fully risen and glazed buns on the lower rack of your preheated oven and bake until lightly golden brown and the inside of the buns registers about 185°F on an instant-read thermometer (about 30 minutes). Allow the buns to cool for 10 minutes on the baking sheet, then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely. Next, make the icing for the cross. In a small bowl, place the confectioners’ sugar and then the milk. Mix well. The icing should be very thick. Place the icing in a pastry bag fitted with a #10 plain piping tip. Pipe the icing in a cross or X pattern on the top of each cooled bun. Remember to be sure that the buns are completely cool before icing them, or the icing will melt into the buns and not be visible. A GLAZED YEAST-RAISED DONUTS MAKES 10 DONUTS S CARDAMOM IS TO HOT CROSS BUNS (PAGE 147), FRESHLY GRATED nutmeg is to donuts. So whatever you do, don’t leave it out of these tender and beautiful bakery-style yeasted donuts. Be sure to keep a close eye on that thermometer while you’re frying these, as they tend to blacken if the frying oil gets above 325°F. And as much as we all wish we could make homemade donuts one day and eat them the next, they’re really at their best when eaten the very same day. Not a particularly big problem.

3 cups (420 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast

½ cup (100 g) sugar

½ teaspoon (3 g) kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly finely grated nutmeg

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons warm milk (about 95°F) (not nonfat)

1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten

4 tablespoons (56 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

A mixture of equal parts canola oil and vegetable shortening, for frying

1. 1 cup (115 g) confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons Lyle’s golden syrup or honey 2 to 4 tablespoons water In the bowl of your stand mixer, place the flour, cream of tartar, yeast, and sugar, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt and nutmeg, and whisk to combine well. Add the milk, egg, and butter, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. This is a lovely, smooth, and supple enriched dough. It climbs up the dough hook during kneading but remains intact and smooth. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for it to rise to double its size, spray the top of the dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper, grease it lightly with cooking oil, and set it aside. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, sprinkle with flour, and knead lightly until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Roll the dough out into a rectangle about ½ inch thick, sprinkling lightly with flour as necessary to prevent sticking. With a floured 3½-inch biscuit or cookie cutter, cut out rounds of the dough. Next, cut about 1-inch holes in the centers with a small floured cookie cutter or the wide end of a large, plain piping tip. Place the donuts and the holes on the prepared baking sheet, about 2 inches apart from one another. Cover the baking sheet with lightly oiled plastic wrap, and place in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled in size (about 1 hour). When the donuts are nearly finished rising, place the canola oil and shortening in a large stockpot so that, when the shortening melts, it and the oil reach about 3 inches up the side of the pot. Over medium-high heat, bring the temperature of the oil and shortening mixture to precisely 325°F. Place the risen donuts, two or three at a time, in the hot oil and fry until light golden brown all over (about 1 minute per side). Drain on paper towels. Fry the holes, too (less than 1 minute per side). As the donuts cool briefly, make the glaze. In a small bowl, place the confectioners’ sugar and Lyle’s golden syrup, and mix well. Add 2 tablespoons of water to the glaze and mix well. The glaze should be smooth and thickly pourable. Add more water by the teaspoon as necessary, mixing between additions, until you reach the desired consistency. Remember that it is easier to thin than to thicken icing, so proceed cautiously. Dip the top of each donut in the glaze, right the donut, and place on a wire rack to set. Serve immediately. T

MAKES 8 ROLLS

O ME, PRETZEL ROLLS ARE THE PERFECT SANDWICH ROLL. I

THINK of them as a terribly efficient way of enjoying a lunch sandwich

—with pretzels. Aren’t you always saying how busy you are? This dough can

easily be made into soft pretzels. Just shape them as directed for the

Sourdough Soft Pretzels (page 107) or even soft pretzel bites by rolling the

dough into ropes and cutting it into 1-inch pieces and then proceeding with

the rest of the recipe as written.

1. 3¼ cups (455 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 40 grams (about 2/3 cup) nonfat dry milk, ground finely in a blender or food processor 2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 1 tablespoon (14 g) packed light brown sugar 1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt 4 tablespoons (56 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons warm water (about 95°F) Baking soda bath for boiling (6 cups water plus 1 tablespoon baking soda plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt) (see instructions in the final paragraph of the instructions for Sourdough Soft Pretzels, page 108) Coarse salt, for sprinkling Place the flour, dry milk, yeast, cream of tartar, and brown sugar in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the butter and water, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper, grease it lightly with cooking oil spray, and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. With a floured bench scraper, divide the dough in half, and then each resulting portion in half again and again until you have eight pieces of equal size (each nearly 4 ounces). To shape each piece of dough, follow the instructions on page 32 for shaping small, round rolls. Place the first shaped roll on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, and place the rolls 3 inches apart from one another on the prepared baking sheet. Cover the baking sheet with oiled plastic wrap and set it in a warm, draft free location to rise until doubled (about 1 hour). As the dough nears the end of its rise, preheat your oven to 375°F. In a large pot, dissolve the baking soda and kosher salt in the 6 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Once the dough has finished rising, place the rolls a few at a time into the boiling baking soda bath for less than a minute per side. Remove the rolls with a strainer and return them to the baking sheet. Score 3 to 4 parallel lines on the top of each roll with a sharp knife or lame at a 45-degree angle, about ¼ inch deep. Sprinkle with coarse salt to taste. Place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven and bake the rolls until golden brown all over (about 35 minutes). Allow to cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes before serving. I

MAKES 6 BIALYS

YORK PHENOMENON. Or, at the very least, a northeastern US

phenomenon. For the uninitiated, they are essentially bagel-shaped—and

made with the same dough as the Plain (or Seeded) Bagels (page 123)—but

instead of a hole they have a divot filled with sautéed onions. And instead of

being boiled and then baked, they are straight-up baked, which means that

they are soft but not chewy. And they are best eaten the day they are made.

They may sound like terribly fussy wannabe bagels, but really they’re their

own thing and they just smell like, well, Sunday to me. And Sunday is my

favorite day of the week, if that’s any indication of how I feel about these

bialys.

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 1 teaspoon (3 g) instant yeast
• 2½ tablespoons (30 g) sugar
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

⅔ teaspoon (2 g) instant yeast

2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt

Starter

2 shallots, peeled and diced

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons (28 g) ghee or unsalted butter

To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl,

and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless.

Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until

doubled (about 40 minutes).

Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and

yeast in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine

well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the risen starter to the bowl,

and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer

speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. It will be very sticky dough,

and because it is such a stiff dough, it will not trail from the dough hook

when you raise the hook out of the bowl. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with

cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough

to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise

to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled

top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least

12 hours and up to 5 days.

On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment

paper and set it aside. Next, make the filling. In a small skillet, sauté the

shallots and salt in the ghee over medium heat until the shallots are

translucent and have begun to caramelize. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, sprinkle with flour, and

knead lightly as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter 3 until

smooth. Divide the dough into six pieces of equal size. To shape each piece

of dough, follow the instructions on page 32 for shaping small, round rolls.

Then, place the first bialy on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat to shape the

other bialys and place them about 3 inches apart on the prepared baking

sheet. Press down on the center of each round of dough, and press out toward

the edges, creating a flat center that gradually rises toward the edge of the

dough. Sprinkle the bialys lightly with more flour, cover with lightly oiled

plastic wrap, and place in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size

(about 45 minutes). During the last 25 minutes of rising, preheat your oven to

400°F.

Once the dough has finished rising, remove the plastic wrap and spoon

about 1 teaspoon of cooled filling into the flat center of each bialy. Place the

baking sheet in the oven and bake for 5 minutes. Turn down the oven

temperature to 350°F and bake for about 7 minutes more, or until the bialys

are lightly golden brown on the edges. Remove from the oven and transfer to

a wire rack until not too hot to handle. Serve warm.

C

MAKES 13 ROLLS

LOVERLEAF ROLLS SIMPLY AREN’T POSSIBLE WITHOUT A

ROBUSTLY-RISING, enriched dough. Luckily, we already had that in

our Hoagie Rolls (page 135). Start with the same recipe, switch up the

technique, and you have cloverleaf rolls. Well, you’ll have to brush them

with butter to make them cloverleaf rolls. Twice. You’ll have to.

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar
• 1⅔ teaspoons (5 g) instant yeast
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 3½ cups (490 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 1 tablespoon (18 g) kosher salt 1½ teaspoons honey ¾ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature 1 large egg, at room temperature 3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature Starter 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, melted (for brushing) To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the honey, yogurt, egg, room-temperature butter, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, grease the wells of a standard 12-cup muffin tin and set it aside. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into thirty-nine pieces, each about 1 ounce. Roll each piece of dough into a ball between your floured palms, keeping all of the dough that you are not working with at the moment lightly covered in a moist towel to prevent it from drying out. Place three balls of dough together in a triangular shape into one cup of the prepared muffin tin. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Cover the muffin tin with a lightly oiled piece of plastic wrap and place in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 15 minutes before the end of the second rise, preheat your oven to 350°F. Once the rolls have finished rising, brush the entire exposed tops generously with melted butter. Place the muffin tin in the center of the preheated oven and bake until the rolls are just browned (10 to 12 minutes). Remove from the oven and brush again with more melted butter. Serve warm. T

MAKES 15 ROLLS

BOSTON’S Parker House Hotel. I don’t know the whole story, but

clearly they were impressive enough to give the hotel a place in history and

to convince generations hence to butter up some tender bread dough and fold

it over just so before baking it. I like to position the rolls next to one another

so they can lend each other support as they rise, as it seems cozy. Too much

togetherness? Set them to rise on their sides on a rimmed baking sheet, a

couple of inches apart from one another.

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar
• 1⅔ teaspoons (5 g) instant yeast
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 3½ cups (490 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 1 tablespoon (18 g) kosher salt 1½ teaspoons honey ¾ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature 1 large egg, at room temperature 3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature Starter 4 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, melted (for brushing) To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the honey, yogurt, egg, room-temperature butter, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, grease an 8-inch square pan and set it aside. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into fifteen pieces, each between 2½ and 3 ounces. Roll each piece of dough into a ball between your floured palms, keeping all of the dough that you are not working with at the moment lightly covered in a moist towel to prevent it from drying out. Roll or pat out each ball of dough into an oval shape, brush the surface with melted butter, fold the oval over on itself until the ends meet, and place it on its folded end, with the opening of the fold facing up, in the prepared pan. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, and place each roll right next to the others, so they support one another as they rise. Cover the baking dish with a lightly oiled piece of plastic wrap and place in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 15 minutes before the end of the second rise, preheat your oven to 350°F. Once the rolls have finished rising, brush the entire exposed tops generously with melted butter. Place the pan in the center of the preheated oven and bake until the rolls are just browned (10 to 12 minutes). Remove from the oven, brush again with more melted butter. Serve warm. B

MAKES 18 ROLLS

IN THE refrigerated section of every single grocery store in every

single town in America, you may know how versatile this dough is. This

buttery, rolled dough can be rolled up all by itself and baked, as in the

instructions below, but it can also be wrapped around cocktail franks or

rolled up with deli meats and baked up into roll-ups. The appetizer ideas are

endless!

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar
• 1⅔ teaspoons (5 g) instant yeast
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 3½ cups (490 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 1 tablespoon (18 g) kosher salt 1½ teaspoons honey ¾ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature 1 large egg, at room temperature 3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature Starter 4 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, melted (for brushing) To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the honey, yogurt, egg, room-temperature butter, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Sprinkle with more flour and knead lightly until smooth. Roll out the dough into a 16-inch circle. With a pastry wheel or sharp knife, slice the round of dough into quarters, then slice each quarter into thirds, making twelve triangles total. Before separating the triangles, brush the dough with 2 tablespoons of the melted butter. Allow the dough to sit for about 5 minutes while the butter sets, to make it less messy for shaping. Once the butter has begun to set, separate one triangle from the circle, and roll it gently but securely from the base to the tip. Place the roll on the prepared baking sheet, with the tip of the triangle secured on the bottom. Repeat with the remaining triangles, spacing the rolls about 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheet. Cover the baking sheet with lightly oiled plastic wrap and place it in a warm, draft-free location to rise until it is 150 percent of its original size (about 45 minutes). Do not overproof. About 15 minutes before the end of the second rise, preheat your oven to 350°F. Once the rolls have finished rising, brush the tops generously with melted butter. Place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven and bake until the rolls are just browned (10 to 12 minutes). Remove from the oven, and serve warm. S

MAKES 9 BUNS

TICKY BUNS ARE SO-NAMED BECAUSE OF THE CARAMELIZED

BOTTOM that becomes the topping for the buns when you turn them out

onto a serving platter. Rather than making a caramel sauce on the stovetop, I

let the oven do the work for me by adding the caramel ingredients to the

bottom of the baking dish before baking. These buns are sticky, gooey, and . .

. heavenly. Wonder what happens if you leave out the bottom-turned-topping?

Flip to page 166 to find out.

3 cups (420 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast

½ cup (100 g) sugar

½ teaspoon (3 g) kosher salt

½ teaspoon finely grated nutmeg

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons warm milk (about 95°F) (not nonfat)

1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten

4 tablespoons (56 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

½ cup (100 g) sugar

½ teaspoon (3 g) kosher salt

¼ cup heavy cream, at room temperature

1 tablespoon (14 g) unsalted butter, melted

1. 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, melted ½ cup (109 g) packed light brown sugar 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon In the bowl of your stand mixer, place the flour, cream of tartar, yeast, and sugar, and whisk with a handheld whisk until combined well. Add the salt and nutmeg, and whisk to combine well. Add the milk, egg, and butter, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. This is a lovely, smooth, and supple enriched dough. It climbs up the dough hook during kneading but remains intact and smooth. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days. On baking day, grease a 9-inch round baking dish and set it aside. Make the topping: In a medium-size bowl, place all of the topping ingredients and mix well. Pour the topping into the prepared baking dish and spread into an even layer. Set the pan aside. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Roll the dough out into a 12- by 15-inch rectangle. Brush the surface of the rectangle with the melted butter and sprinkle evenly with the brown sugar and cinnamon from the filling. Beginning at the 12-inch side of the dough, roll it tightly away from your body until it is a coil. With a sharp knife, slice the roll crosswise into nine pieces, each about 1⅓ inches wide. Place the rolls, one flat side down, on the topping in the bottom of the prepared baking dish, evenly spaced from one another. There should be enough room for the rolls to expand as they rise. Cover the baking dish with oiled plastic wrap and place in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size (about 1 hour). Once the rolls have finished rising, remove the plastic wrap and place the baking dish in the center of a cold oven. Turn the oven on to 350°F, and bake until the buns are golden brown and bubbling (about 25 minutes). Do not overbake or the filling (and the rolls) will burn. Remove from the oven and invert the entire baking dish immediately onto a serving platter. Wait for the rolls to fall out in one piece from the baking dish, then remove the dish. Serve warm. T

MAKES 9 BUNS

(PAGE 164) are made without the caramelized bottom-turned-topping.

These rolls are for when you’re not feeling like you can power through both

the bun and the caramelized topping. We all have our limits.

3 cups (420 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast

½ cup (100 g) sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon finely grated nutmeg

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons warm milk (not nonfat)

1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten

4 tablespoons (56 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1. 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, melted ½ cup (109 g) packed light brown sugar 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon In the bowl of your stand mixer, place the flour, cream of tartar, instant yeast and sugar, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt and nutmeg and whisk to combine well. Add the milk, egg, and butter, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough is a lovely, smooth, enriched dough. It climbs up the dough hook during kneading but remains intact and smooth. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, spray the top of the dough with cooking oil spray, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days. On baking day, grease a 9-inch round baking dish and set it aside. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Roll out the dough into a 12 by 15-inch rectangle. Brush the surface of the rectangle with the melted butter from the filling and sprinkle evenly with the brown sugar and cinnamon. Beginning at the 12-inch side of the dough, roll it tightly away from your body until it is a coil. With a sharp knife, slice the roll crosswise into nine pieces, each about 1⅓ inches wide. Place the rolls, one flat side down, on the prepared baking dish, evenly spaced from one another. There should be enough room for the rolls to expand as they rise. Cover the baking dish with oiled plastic wrap and place in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size (about 1 hour). Once the rolls have finished rising, remove the plastic wrap and place the baking dish in the center of a cold oven. Turn the oven on to 350°F, and bake until the rolls are golden brown and bubbling (about 25 minutes). Remove from the oven, and serve warm. T

MAKES TWO 16-INCH BAGUETTES

HIS IS HOW I PICTURE YOU: WALKING HOME WITH A

SHOPPING bag slung over your shoulder, a hunk of cheese, and an aged

salami on the bottom of the bag. And what’s that sticking out of the bag?

Fresh-cut flowers . . . and two 16-inch baguettes! Go run and get the cheese

and charcuterie. I’ll meet you back here with the crustiest truly authentictasting

gluten-free baguettes you’ve never had (until now)!

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast
• 1½ tablespoons (18 g) sugar
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 2¼ cups (315 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling ½ teaspoon cream of tartar 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt 1 tablespoon honey ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons water, at room temperature Starter To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour, cream of tartar, and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the honey, water, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into two equally weighted pieces. Lightly flour one piece of dough, and cover the other piece with a moist tea towel so that it doesn’t dry out. To shape the first piece of dough, follow the instructions on page 35 for shaping baguettes. Once finished, place the first shaped baguette carefully on the prepared baking sheet and dust with flour. Repeat the process with the remaining half of the dough, placing it about 3 inches from the first baguette. Cover the pan with oiled plastic wrap and set it in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 25 minutes before the dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 375°F. Once the dough has finished rising, dust both baguettes with flour again, slash from one side into each baguette in three or four places, with a sharp knife or a lame on a diagonal at a 45-degree angle to the bread, just less than ¼ inch deep. Place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven, quickly throw a few cubes of ice into the bottom of the oven to create steam, and quickly close the oven door. Bake until the baguettes are lightly golden brown, and the center of each baguette reads about 190°F on an instant-read thermometer (about 30 minutes). Remove from the oven, transfer to a wire rack, and allow to cool for about 15 minutes before slicing and serving. A WHOLE-GRAIN BAGUETTES MAKES TWO 16-INCH BAGUETTES GAIN, WITH JUST A FEW TWEAKS TO THE BASIC BAGUETTE RECIPE (page 169), we have whole-grain baguettes, for when you’re looking for that wheaty bite, and an extra hit of whole-grain nutrition.

¾ cup (105 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

¾ cup (105 g) Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Flour (page 10)

2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast

1½ teaspoons (18 g) sugar

1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling ½ teaspoon cream of tartar 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt 1 tablespoon honey 3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature Starter To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour, cream of tartar, and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer and whisk to combine well with a separate, handheld whisk. Add the honey, butter, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into two equally weighted pieces. Lightly flour one piece of dough, and cover the other piece with a moist tea towel so that it doesn’t dry out. To shape the first piece of dough, follow the instructions on page 35 for shaping baguettes. Once finished, place the first shaped baguette carefully on the prepared baking sheet and dust with flour. Repeat the process with the remaining half of the dough, placing it about 3 inches from the first baguette. Cover the pan with oiled plastic wrap and set the dough in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 25 minutes before the dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 375°F. Once the dough has finished rising, dust both baguettes with flour again, slice from one side into each baguette in three or four places, with a sharp knife or lame on a diagonal at a 45-degree angle to the baguette, just less than ¼ inch deep. Place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven, quickly throw a few cubes of ice into the bottom of the oven to create steam, and quickly close the oven door. Bake until the baguettes are lightly golden brown, and the center of each baguette reads about 190°F on an instant-read thermometer (about 30 minutes). Remove from the oven, transfer to a wire rack, and allow to cool for about 15 minutes before slicing and serving. T WHOLE-GRAIN BOULE MAKES 2 ROUND LOAVES HESE BOULES ARE MADE WITH WHOLE GRAIN DOUGH, BUT COULD just as easily be made with lean bread dough (page 43). The difference is in the technique, so be sure to read the recipe all the way through before you begin, and maybe even go back and reread the section on shaping bread dough (see page 34).

¾ cup (105 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

¾ cup (105 g) Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Flour (page 10)

2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast

1½ teaspoons (18 g) sugar

1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling ½ teaspoon cream of tartar 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt 1 tablespoon honey 3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature Starter To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour, cream of tartar, and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the honey, butter, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into two equally weighted pieces. Lightly flour one piece of dough, and cover the other piece with a moist tea towel so that it doesn’t dry out. To shape the first piece of dough, follow the instructions on page 34 for shaping a boule. Once finished, place the first boule onto the prepared baking sheet, seam side down, and dust with more flour. Repeat the process with the other piece of dough. Cover both loaves with oiled plastic wrap and set to rise in a warm, draftfree location until doubled in size (about 1½ hours). About 25 minutes before the dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 375°F. Once the dough has finished rising, remove the plastic wrap, dust both loaves with more flour, and slash each a few times horizontally near the base at a 45 degree angle about ¼ inch deep with a sharp knife or lame. Place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven, quickly throw a few cubes of ice into the bottom of the oven to create steam, and quickly close the oven door. Bake until the loaves are lightly golden brown, and the center of each loaf reads about 190°F on an instant-read thermometer (about 40 minutes). Remove from the oven, transfer to a wire rack, and allow to cool for about 20 minutes before slicing and serving. T SOFT OLIVE GARDEN–STYLE GARLIC

MAKES 12 BREADSTICKS

HE BREADSTICKS AT OLIVE GARDEN ARE LEGENDARY,

RIGHT? EVEN though this restaurant chain offers a few gluten-free

items on its menu, a gluten-free iteration of its breadsticks is not among them.

No mind. These breadsticks get most of their flavor from the garlic butter

they are brushed with, twice. So, there’s no need for a second rise. You know

what that means, don’t you? It means that they require very little advance

planning before you’re walking right down memory lane, the Olive Garden

edition.

• 4¼ cups (595 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling
• 2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast
• 2 tablespoons (24 g) sugar
• 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt
• 6 tablespoons (84 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons warm water (about 95°F)

1. 3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter, melted 1 teaspoon garlic salt First make the bread dough. Place the flour, yeast, and sugar in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the butter and water, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into twelve pieces. With each piece, follow the instructions on page 35 for shaping hoagies (covering the remaining pieces of dough with a moist tea towel so that they don’t dry out), elongating each breadstick to about 8 inches long. Place the breadsticks about 2 inches apart from one another on the prepared baking sheet, and dust with flour. Once all the breadsticks are shaped, cover the baking sheet with oiled plastic wrap and set in a warm, draft-free location to rise until the breadsticks are nearly doubled in size (about 1½ hours). About 25 minutes before the dough has finished rising, remove the plastic, preheat your oven to 375°F. Once the breadsticks have finished rising, remove the plastic, place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven and immediately turn down the oven temperature to 350°F. Bake for 5 minutes. While the breadsticks are baking, melt the butter for the garlic butter in a small, microwave-safe bowl, then mix in the garlic salt. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and brush each breadstick generously with the garlic butter. Return the breadsticks to the oven and continue to bake until they are lightly golden brown all over (about another 5 minutes). Remove the breadsticks from the oven and brush again with garlic butter. Serve immediately. T BASIC TORPEDO BREAD (OR BATARD) MAKES 2 LOAVES

SHAPES that good gluten-free bread can take. A batard is shorter and

wider than a baguette but is shaped quite similarly. Once you have mastered

one, the other shouldn’t be far behind.

• 1¼ cups (175 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast
• 1½ tablespoons (18 g) sugar
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 2¼ cups (315 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling ½ teaspoon cream of tartar 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt 1 tablespoon honey ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons water, at room temperature Starter To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour, cream of tartar, and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the honey, water, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into two equally weighted pieces. Lightly flour one piece of dough, and cover the other piece with a moist tea towel so that it doesn’t dry out. To shape the first loaf, follow the instructions on page 34 for shaping batards. Place the loaf on the prepared baking sheet and dust it with more flour. Repeat the process with the other piece of dough. Cover both loaves with oiled plastic wrap and set to rise in a warm, draft-free location until doubled in size (about 1½ hours). About 25 minutes before the dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 375°F. Once the dough has finished rising, remove the plastic wrap, dust both loaves with more flour, and slash each a few times horizontally near the base at a 45 degree angle about ¼ inch deep with a sharp knife or lame. Place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven, quickly throw a few ice cubes into the bottom of the oven to create steam, and quickly close the oven door. Bake until the loaves are lightly golden brown all over, and the center of each loaf reads about 190°F on an instant-read thermometer (about 40 minutes). Remove from the oven, transfer to a wire rack, and allow to cool for about 20 minutes before slicing and serving. I

MAKES 12 ROLLS

F YOU’VE BEEN MISSING THE SWEET, LIGHT, AND FLAVORFUL

TASTE of Hawaiian rolls, you’ll want to start doing the happy dance right

about now. I like these best as dinner rolls, but if you prefer them made into

miniature ham and cheese sandwiches, I’ll understand.

1. 3 cups (420 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 2 teaspoons (6 g) instant yeast ¼ cup (50 g) sugar 1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt 4 tablespoons (56 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon pineapple juice 1 teaspoon gluten-free vanilla extract Egg wash (1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten with 1 tablespoon water) Place the flour, yeast, and sugar in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the butter, egg, pineapple juice, and vanilla, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, grease an 8-inch round baking pan and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. With a floured bench scraper, divide the dough into twelve pieces of equal size. Shape one piece into a round by following the directions for shaping small, round rolls on page
3. 32. Place the first roll in the prepared baking pan. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, placing the rolls less than an inch apart from one another. Cover the baking pan with oiled plastic wrap and set it aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise for 30 minutes. Uncover the pan and brush the rolls generously with the egg wash. Allow the rolls to finish rising, uncovered, until fully doubled in size (about 20 minutes more). About 20 minutes before the rolls have completed their final rise, preheat your oven to 350°F. Place the baking pan on the lower rack of the preheated oven and bake until lightly golden brown, and the inside of the rolls registers about 185°F on an instant-read thermometer (about 20 minutes). Allow to cool briefly in the pan before serving. T

MAKES 16 BUNS

BRIOCHE Bread (page 50), all dressed up like you see them in a

bakery, with those sweet little balls of dough on top.

1 cup (140 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

2⅔ teaspoons (8 g) instant yeast

1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar

½ cup milk, scalded and cooled to 95°F (not nonfat)

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water (about 95°F)

1. 3 cups (420 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt 1½ tablespoons honey 3 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten 11 tablespoons (154 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature Starter Egg wash (1 large egg, at room temperature, beaten with 1 tablespoon milk) To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the honey, eggs, butter, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will be quite sticky, but should be smooth and stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. On baking day, grease sixteen miniature brioche molds well and set them aside on a rimmed baking sheet. If you don’t have brioche molds, you can use standard muffin tins. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough in half, then each half in half to make four equal pieces, and each of the four pieces into four pieces, until you have sixteen total pieces of equal size. Working with one piece of dough at a time (covering the others with a moist tea towel so that they don’t dry out), pull off a piece of dough that is about one-fifth the size of the whole. Shape both the large and the small pieces into rounds between your floured palms. Place the larger round in a prepared mold and place the small round on top in the center of the larger round, pressing down slightly to ensure that they adhere. Replace the mold on the baking sheet, and repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Cover the molds on the baking sheet with oiled plastic wrap and set in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled in size (about 1 hour). About 25 minutes before the dough has finished rising, preheat your oven to 350°F. Once the buns have finished rising, remove the plastic wrap, brush the tops generously with the egg wash, then place the baking sheet in the center of the preheated oven. Bake the buns for about 15 minutes, or until they are lightly golden brown and register 185°F in the center on an instant-read thermometer. Allow to cool briefly before serving. 7 FLATBREADS

P

THICK-CRUST PIZZA DOUGH

MAKES 2 THICK 12-INCH PIZZAS

ENTRY-POINT for baking yeast dough as the rising is almost entirely

for the purpose of flavor development. Believe it or not, in theory, you can

even skip the refrigerator rise and go right to shaping and baking. Your pizza

will still puff up in the oven during baking, thanks to the oven spring. But

(you knew there was a but, right?), even if you were willing to forgo the

flavor that a long, slow refrigerator rise gives to your pizza, I really don’t

recommend getting right to work with this dough. This thick-crust pizza

dough is a relatively high-hydration (wet) dough, so unless it spends some

time in the refrigerator, it can be quite difficult to handle.

1½ cups (210 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

1 teaspoon (3 g) instant yeast

2 teaspoons (8 g) sugar

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water (about 95°F)

1. 2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 1⅓ teaspoons (4 g) instant yeast 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup water, at room temperature Starter To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and yeast in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the olive oil, water, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will begin as a rough ball and become very sticky, but should be smooth and somewhat stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. Once the pizza dough has finished rising in the refrigerator, it is best to work with it cold. Place a pizza stone (or overturned rimmed metal baking sheet) on the bottom rack of your oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. On a lightly floured surface, knead dough until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the chilled dough into two equal portions, and roll each into a ball. Sprinkle both lightly with flour, and cover one with a moist tea towel so that it doesn’t dry out. Using well-floured hands and a rolling pin, as necessary, pat and roll out the first piece of dough on a lightly floured surface into a 12-inch round, rotating the dough and flouring it frequently, to prevent sticking. Roll and pat the dough more thickly as you work from the center of the dough to the edges to create a crust. Transfer the round of dough to a piece of unbleached parchment paper. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Place each crust, one at a time, each still on its parchment paper, on the hot pizza stone. Bake for about 5 minutes, or until the crust begins to puff and brown. Remove it from the oven. Top your pizza with your desired toppings, then place the pizzas again, one at a time, back on the pizza stone. Bake until the crust is browned and your toppings are cooked as desired (about 7 minutes, but time will vary depending upon toppings and taste). Allow the pizza to set for a few minutes before slicing and serving. For more ideas on how to use the pizza dough, see Chapter
3. 9. M THIN-CRUST PIZZA DOUGH MAKES 2 THIN 10-INCH PIZZAS

ROLLING out the Thick-Crust Pizza, well, thinly. The ingredient

proportions in this thin crust pizza are a bit different, making for a stiffer

dough that crisps more and rises less.

• 1 cup (140 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)
• 1⅔ teaspoons (5 g) instant yeast
• 1½ teaspoons (6 g) sugar
• 1 cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt Starter To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and salt in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will begin as a rough ball and will become very sticky and rather stiff, but still stretchy and smooth. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. Once the pizza dough has finished rising in the refrigerator, it is best to work with it cold. Place a pizza stone (or overturned rimmed metal baking sheet) on the bottom rack of your oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough until smoother as described in the General Shaping Tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into two equal portions, and roll each into a ball. Sprinkle both lightly with flour, and cover one with a moist tea towel so that it doesn’t dry out. Using well-floured hands and a rolling pin, as necessary, pat and roll out the first piece of dough on a lightly floured surface into an 11-inch round, rotating the dough and flouring it frequently, to prevent sticking. Transfer the round of dough to a piece of unbleached parchment paper. Roll in the edges of the dough to create a crust, and pinch to secure. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Place each crust, one at a time, each still on its parchment paper, on the hot pizza stone. Bake for about 5 minutes, or until the crust begins to puff and brown. Remove it from the oven. Top your pizza with your desired toppings, then place the pizzas again, one at a time, back on the pizza stone. Bake until the crust is browned and your toppings are cooked as desired (about 7 minutes, but time will vary depending upon toppings and taste). Allow the pizza to set for a few minutes before slicing and serving. For more ideas on how to use the pizza dough, see Chapter
3. 9. B THICK-CRUST WHOLE-GRAIN PIZZA CRUST

MAKES 2 THICK 14-INCH PIZZAS

ECAUSE WE NOW HAVE THICK-CRUST PIZZA (PAGE 187) AND

THIN-CRUST Pizza (page 189), it’s time to get greedy. This wholegrain

pizza dough has that satisfying bite and weight that only whole grains

can bring, and the moral superiority that you get when you not only make your

own food but make it healthfully, to boot. Home run!

1 cup (140 g) Whole-Grain Gluten-Free Flour (page 10)

¾ cup (105 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

1⅓ teaspoons (4 g) instant yeast

1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar

1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons water, at room temperature

1. 2¼ cups (315 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 1⅓ teaspoons (4 g) instant yeast 2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature Starter To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl, and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless. Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until doubled (about 40 minutes). Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. Place the flour and yeast in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the olive oil, butter, and risen starter to the bowl, and mix on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes. The dough will begin as a rough ball and become very sticky dough, but should be smooth and somewhat stretchy. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 5 days. Once the pizza dough has finished rising in the refrigerator, it is best to work with it cold. Place a pizza stone (or overturned rimmed metal baking sheet) on the bottom rack of your oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough until smoother as described in the General Shaping tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough into two equal portions, and roll each into a ball. Sprinkle both lightly with flour, and cover one with a moist tea towel so that it doesn’t dry out. Using well-floured hands and a rolling pin, as necessary, pat and roll out the first piece of dough on a lightly floured surface into a 12-inch round, rotating the dough and flouring it frequently to prevent sticking. Roll and pat the dough more thickly as you work from the center of the dough to the edges to create a crust. Transfer the round of dough to a piece of unbleached parchment paper. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Place each crust, one at a time, each still on its parchment paper, on the hot pizza stone. Bake for about 5 minutes, or until the crust begins to puff and brown. Remove it from the oven. Top your pizza with your desired toppings, then place the pizzas again, one at a time, back on the pizza stone. Bake until the crust is browned and your toppings are cooked as desired (about 7 minutes, but time will vary depending upon toppings and taste). Allow the pizza to set for a few minutes before slicing and serving. For more ideas on how to use the pizza dough, see Chapter
3. 9. C DEEP-DISH CHICAGO-STYLE PIZZA MAKES TWO 8-INCH DEEP-DISH PIZZAS HICAGO’S FAMOUS DEEP-DISH PIZZA IS SIMPLY IN A CLASS BY ITSELF. Almost like a cross between a piecrust and a pizza crust, it’s buttery and flaky but still has some bite. If you’ve been missing it, or even if you didn’t know to miss it, things are about to change for the better.

2½ cups (350 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

¼ cup (33 g) coarsely ground gluten-free cornmeal

1⅓ teaspoons (4 g) instant yeast

2 teaspoons (8 g) sugar

2 teaspoons (12 g) kosher salt

¼ cup canola oil

¾ cup warm water (about 95°F)

1. 2 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter, melted 5 ounces thickly sliced provolone cheese 4 ounces cubed pancetta Leaves from 3 sprigs of fresh oregano or 2 teaspoons dried 1 cup Quick Homemade Tomato Sauce (page 249) or store-bought sauce 2 ounces finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese To make the pizza dough, place the flour, cornmeal, yeast, and sugar in the bowl of your stand mixer, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the canola oil and water to the bowl, and knead on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium-high and knead until smooth (about 5 minutes). Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days. On baking day, preheat your oven to 375°F. Grease two 8-inch round baking pans with sides at least 1½ inches high and set them aside. Remove the container of dough from the refrigerator and place on a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough until smoother as described in the General Shaping tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the chilled dough into two equal portions, and roll each into a ball. Sprinkle both lightly with flour, and cover one with a moist tea towel so that it doesn’t dry out. With a rolling pin, roll out one piece of the dough into a round that is about ¼ inch thick, flouring the dough and the surface and moving the dough often as necessary to prevent it from sticking to the surface. Lift the round of dough carefully into one of the prepared baking dishes and press it into the bottom and up the sides of the pan, as you would with a piecrust. Trim any edges that extend over the top of the sides of the pan. Repeat the process with the other half of the dough, placing it in the remaining prepared baking dish. To assemble the pizzas, with the two crusts side by side, brush the bottoms and sides of each generously with the melted butter. Divide the provolone cheese between the two baking dishes, covering the bottom surface of each crust completely. Divide the pancetta between the two dishes, scattering it in an even layer on top of the cheese, followed by the oregano leaves and then the tomato sauce in a thick layer. Sprinkle the tops evenly with the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Cover each pizza loosely with aluminum foil, and place together in the center of the preheated oven. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and the pancetta is very fragrant. Uncover the pizzas and continue to bake until about one-third of the moisture has evaporated from the tomato sauce (about another 15 minutes). Remove from the oven and allow to cool at room temperature until set (about 10 minutes). Slide the pizzas out of the pans onto a cutting board, cut into slices, and serve warm. T

MAKES 8 PIECES

NAAN makes for a very tender flatbread. Serve it alongside your

favorite Indian curry, or try layering it with sliced deli meat for the perfect

open-faced sandwich.

1. 2½ cups (350 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling 1⅔ teaspoons (5 g) instant yeast 1½ tablespoons (18 g) sugar ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar ½ teaspoon (3 g) kosher salt ⅓ cup plain yogurt, at room temperature 3 tablespoons (42 g) ghee or unsalted butter, melted and cooled ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water (about 95°F) Ghee or unsalted butter, for frying In the bowl of your stand mixer, place the flour, yeast, sugar, and cream of tartar, and use a handheld whisk to combine well. Add the salt, and whisk to combine. Add the yogurt, ghee, and water, and knead on low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to medium-high and knead until smooth (about 5 minutes). Spray a silicone spatula lightly with cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days. On baking day, line a rimmed baking sheet with unbleached parchment paper, spray the paper lightly with cooking oil, and set it aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Knead the dough until smoother as described in the General Shaping tips in Chapter
2. 3. Divide the dough in half, then each half in half, until you have eight total pieces, each about 95 grams. Shape the first piece of dough. Flouring the surface as necessary to keep the dough from sticking, and covering the remaining pieces of dough with a moist tea towel so that they don’t dry out, use a rolling pin to roll each piece of dough into an elongated oval about ⅜ inch thick. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Place each piece of shaped dough 2 inches apart from one another on the prepared baking sheet. Cover with lightly oiled plastic wrap, and set in a warm, draft-free location to rise until nearly doubled in size (about 1 hour). As the dough is nearing the end of its rise, place about 2 tablespoons of ghee in a cast-iron skillet, and melt over medium-high heat. Once the pan is hot, place the first piece of dough in the pan. Fry on one side until large bubbles begin to form (about 1 minute). Continue to fry for another 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until the underside is golden brown. Flip the bread to cook on the other side until browned, another minute or so. Transfer to a paper towel. Repeat with the remaining seven pieces of dough. Serve immediately. B

MAKES 1 LARGE FOCACCIA

MAKING gluten-free bread, I had made gluten-free nice focaccia. But

as soon as I began to have success baking this new way, I had no choice but

to continue to raise the bar. The characteristic dimples serve a necessary

function: The dough is meant to rise so much that dimpling is necessary to

break any oversized bubbles not just to achieve the traditional appearance.

Now, with this recipe, gluten-free focaccia is crispy on the outside and truly

light and airy on the inside, with those big, yeasty holes I never before dared

to wish for. Eureka!

1 cup (140 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

1⅓ teaspoons (4 g) instant yeast

¾ cup warm water (about 95°F)

1 tablespoon honey

2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt

¾ teaspoon cream of tartar

1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar

¾ cup water, at room temperature

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Starter

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons dried herbes de Provence (or your favorite dried herbs)

To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl,

and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless.

Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until more

than doubled in size (about an hour).

Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. In the bowl of your

stand mixer, place the flour, salt, cream of tartar, and sugar, and use a

handheld whisk to combine. Add the water, oil, and risen starter, and mix on

low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to

medium and knead for about 5 minutes. When you raise the dough hook, a

trail of dough from the hook to the bowl should be intact for at least the count

of five. The dough will be quite sticky. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with

cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough

to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise

to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled

top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least

24 hours and up to 5 days.

On baking day, line a large rimmed baking sheet with unbleached

parchment paper and set it aside. In a small bowl, combine the topping

ingredients and mix to combine to create an herb oil. Set the bowl aside.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator, scatter a generous amount of

flour on a flat surface, scrape the dough out of the bowl on top of the flour,

and sprinkle with flour. Turn the dough over on itself with a bench scraper

and transfer it carefully, with the help of a floured bench scraper, to the

center of the prepared baking sheet. Drizzle half of the herb oil on top of the

dough and, with the tips of your fingers, press and push the dough out toward

the edges of the pan. The dough will be very wet and may be difficult to

handle. Cover the dough with oiled plastic wrap and place in a warm, draftfree

location to rise until doubled in size (about 2 hours). The dough will rise

both up and out.

About 25 minutes before the end of the dough’s rise, preheat your oven to

450°F and place a pizza stone on the lower rack. Once the dough has finished

rising, pour the remaining herb oil over the top of the risen dough. Gently

spread the oil around with your fingertips, dimpling the dough if you see any

large bubbles, but otherwise taking care not to deflate it.

Place the baking sheet on the pizza stone, and bake for 5 minutes at

450°F. Lower the oven temperature to 400°F and continue to bake for another

15 minutes, or until the top of the focaccia is golden brown and the center of

the bread reaches 200°F on an instant-read thermometer. Slice and serve

warm.

W

MAKES 1 LARGE FOCACCIA

HERB Focaccia (page 198), the garlic-infused oil is what makes this

focaccia extra special. If you dare, try first sautéing the garlic with the oil

before adding the herbs and mixing to combine. Slice into squares, and you

won’t need anything else for a seriously impressive appetizer.

1 cup (140 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8)

1⅓ teaspoons (4 g) instant yeast

¾ cup water, at room temperature

1 tablespoon honey

2 cups (280 g) Gluten-Free Bread Flour (page 8), plus more for sprinkling

1 teaspoon (6 g) kosher salt

¾ teaspoon cream of tartar

1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar

¾ cup water, at room temperature

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Starter

5 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

To make the starter, place all the starter ingredients in a medium-size bowl,

and whisk until well combined. The mixture will be thick and shapeless.

Cover and set the bowl aside in a warm, draft-free location to rise until more

than doubled in size (about an hour).

Once the starter has finished rising, make the dough. In the bowl of your

stand mixer, place the flour, salt, cream of tartar, and sugar, and use a

handheld whisk to combine. Add the water, oil, and risen starter, and mix on

low speed with the dough hook until combined. Raise the mixer speed to

medium and knead for about 5 minutes. When you raise the dough hook, a

trail of dough from the hook to the bowl should be intact for at least the count

of five. The dough will be quite sticky. Spray a silicone spatula lightly with

cooking oil spray, and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough

to a lightly oiled bowl or proofing bucket large enough for the dough to rise

to double its size, and cover with an oiled piece of plastic wrap (or the oiled

top to your proofing bucket). Place the dough in the refrigerator for at least

24 hours and up to 5 days.

On baking day, line a large rimmed baking sheet with unbleached

parchment paper and set it aside. Make the topping. In a small, heavybottomed

saucepan, sauté the minced garlic in the olive oil over low heat,

stirring frequently, until the garlic is fragrant (about 3 minutes). Remove the

pan from the heat, add the salt, mix to combine, and set the garlic mixture

aside to cool.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator, scatter a generous amount of

flour on a flat surface, scrape the dough out of the bowl on top of the flour,

and sprinkle with flour. Turn the dough over on itself with a bench scraper

and transfer it carefully, with the help of a floured bench scraper, to the

center of the prepared baking sheet. Drizzle half of the garlic oil on top of the

dough and, with the tips of your fingers, press and push the dough out toward

the edges of the pan. The dough will be very wet and may be difficult to

handle. Cover the dough with oiled plastic wrap and place in a warm, draftfree

location to rise until doubled in size (about 2 hours). The dough will rise

both up and out.

About 25 minutes before the end of the dough’s rise, preheat your oven to

450°F and place a pizza stone on the lower rack. Once the dough has finished

rising, pour the remaining garlic oil over the top of the risen dough. Gently

spread the oil and minced garlic topping around with your fingertips,

dimpling the dough if you see any large bubbles, but otherwise taking care

not to deflate it.

Place the baking sheet on the pizza stone, and bake for 5 minutes at

450°F. Lower the oven temperature to 400°F and continue to bake for another

15 minutes, or until the top of the focaccia is golden brown and the center of

the bread reaches 200°F on an instant-read thermometer. Slice and serve

warm.